Showing posts with label Genever. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Genever. Show all posts

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Vandaag




Vandaag had its soft opening on Tue, July 27th, 2010 and so is still relatively new to the east village.

Introduced as an upscale restaurant specializing in Northern European cuisine, it was also billed as a genever bar and created a buzz in the cocktail world when it opened. While it was certainly not the first genever bar to open in NYC, it was the first in many a year!

Owner Brendan Spiro came up with the concept for Vandaag, which means "Today" in Dutch. The cocktail and spirits program was put together by Katie Stipe, a former bartender at Clover Club in Brooklyn and partner with Mayahuel’s Phil Ward in the consulting firm "Last Call Consulting". The chef is Phillip Kirschen-Clark, who has previously worked at Jimmy’s No. 43, Pegu Club and, more recently, Corton.

When Vandaag opened, much attention was paid to its wide range of genevers, European beers and wines, along with inventive cocktails using a beer/spirit combination including the classic Dutch shot-and-a-beer combo known as the kopstootje (or “little headbutt”).


We stopped in at Vandaag after PDT on our way to Fatty Johnson's for a quick drink. As expected, the space was open, light and modern. The zinc bar is a nice fit with the polished concrete floors and Scandinavian-like "new modern" decor. The touches of wood throughout kept the space feeling comfortable, and the overall ambiance works with the restaurant's concept.

The main press about this spot revolves around the Northern European cuisine, and it seems that management has struggled a bit to shed the "gin bar" label and focus on their kitchen program. I was there to experience the bar program so I did not try any food this visit, but from the dishes I did see I would be happy to come back for a meal. 

Working that evening and taking very good care of us, was Dan Nicolaescu.

I caught up with Dan recently, and was able to ask him a few questions.

Dan is passionate about his craft, always studying to create new combinations, and a blur behind the bar.

Dan has been in the restaurant business for some time now and like many barkeeps, got his start working the front of the house.

Interacting with customers and their drink orders, ducking behind the bar to make the occasional drink and eventually covering shifts here and there will get you a lot of practical experience!

As is easy to do working in good eating establishments, Dan became a bit of a wine guy and developed a good level of oenophilic knowledge, but says he never lost his interest in spirits.

Before landing his current gig at Vandaag, he started making more and more friends in the industry, taking classes and reading all he could get his hands on. Before long, he found himself "submerged" in the world of craft cocktails.

When I asked about his favorite cocktail books, he said he was currently enjoying David Wondrich's recent title Punch, and also greatly enjoyed Imbibe by the same author. For beginners he recommended Dale Degroff's Essential Cocktail and Craft of the Cocktail.

He also gave a nod to Left Coast Libations by Ted Munat & Michael Lazar, which is a great book if working a bar program with kitchen resources like Vandaag has.

I asked about his favorite "under-appreciated" classic cocktail recipe and his response came quickly citing the "Hanky Panky" cocktail.

(The Hanky Panky, Ada Coleman's classic recipe from Harry Craddock's 1930 title, The Savoy Cocktail Book, is a pleasing mix of gin and sweet vermouth nicely balanced with a few dashes Fernet Branca.)

To the age old (but still great) question, "What do you like to drink at home?", Dan told me he prefers high quality whiskeys including single malt scotches, straight bourbons, Japanese, Irish and other whiskeys - and that when drinking them on their own, he always takes them neat.

Dan was also kind enough, after checking with Katie of course, to provide the recipe for the very enjoyable drink that he served to me that night. (Big thanks to both Dan and Katie for this!).

Daisy de Hollanda By Katie Stipe, winter 2010, Vandaag NYC

1.5 oz Genevieve
0.5 oz Lustau fino sherry
0.5 oz pine syrup*
0.5 oz lime juice
0.25 oz green chartreuse
0.75 oz soda water


Shake all ingredients, beside soda water, with ice and strain over fresh ice into Collins glass. Top with soda and stir a couple times. Garnish with pine stem. Serve with straw.

*VANDAAG PINE SYRUP:
1 cup superfine sugar( by volume)
1 cup water
Fresh pine clippings


Make a simple syrup by heating water and sugar together in a pot over low/med heat. Add fresh pine clippings and remove from heat. Let steep overnight and strain. If it's not piney enough add more pine clippings and heat gently (pines don't have a consistent flavor so you have to adjust the amount of clippings). Do NOT reduce the syrup. Keep refrigerated.

So...if you find yourself in the east village, do yourself a big favor and stop in to see Dan or Katie for great drinks, and an education in the wonderful world of genever and other Northern European beverages and cuisine.



Friday, December 10, 2010

Turf Cocktail No. 2

TURF COCKTAIL NO.2



Basically a simplified Martinez, this cocktail appears in Jacques Straub's 1914 book, "Drinks" with the following instructions:

Turf Cocktail No.2


2 dashes Angostura bitters
1/3 jigger Italian Vermouth
2/3 jigger Holland Gin.  Stir


Super simple, I used 2 oz of Zuidam 5 Oude Genever, 1 oz of Carpano Antica Italian sweet vermouth and added a lemon twist.

Not quite dark, not quite light...if there was a "medium and stirred" category this would qualify. It's nice, I also noticed the flavors improving as the drink warmed a bit.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Zuidam Oude Genever (5 yr)

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Zuidam Single Barrel Oude Genever 5 year old

Today I received this bottle of Zuidam (pronounced Zoo-dam) as a gift so it seemed the perfect place to start. My experience with Genever (the Dutch word for juniper) in the oude style had been previously limited to the Bol's 6 y.o. expression.

Genever comes mainly in 2 expressions, the "oude" (old) and "Jonge" (young) style which is not a matter of aging but rather of the technique of distillation and main ingredients used.

The Bols 6 and the Zuidam 5 may both be oude Genevers but that seems to be where the similarities end. Where the Bols is clear and malty the Zuidam is amber and sweet. Indeed, it's very difficult to get past the malt nose on the Bols. In contrast the Zuidam has complex layers that bring you deeper and deeper into the glass. Clean citrus, vanilla, baking spices. Like a fine aged rum or cognac.

The base is distilled three times in a pot still from Malted Barley, Rye and Corn. Coriander from Morocco, angelica root, juniper berries and iris root from Italy, licorice root from India, sweet oranges and whole lemons from Spain, and whole vanilla beans from Madagascar make up the nine botanicals that are distilled separately then blended back together to create many distinct layers of flavor. Fred van Zuidam and his son Patrick make up the father son distilling team that literally search the world over for the best natural ingredients available.

The old world care and small batch aging in new (or very young) American white oak casks is evident. The "really silky smooth" mouth feel, rich vanilla and toffee notes bragged about on the manufacturer's website are present. A drop of mineral water and I'm transported to the tropics. This reminds me more of a "planter's best" (thanks for the new lingo Dave) style rhum than the thick, chewy malt and corn of the Bols. Clearly there must be as much range in the Genever family as any other spirit. Hopefully these catch on in the US!

Since we're talking Genever in a premium, old style I thought the best cocktail test for this would be an "Improved Gin Cocktail" ala Jerry Thomas.

Original Recipe

Improved Brandy Cocktail
(Use ordinary bar-glass.)
Take 2 dashes Boker's (or Angostura) Bitters.
3 dashes gum syrup.
2 dashes Maraschino.
1 dash Absinthe.
1 small piece of the yellow rind of a lemon,
twisted to express the oil.
1 small wine-glass of brandy (gin).

Fill glass one-third full of shaved ice, shake well,
and strain into a fancy cocktail glass, put the lemon
peel in the glass and serve. The flavor is improved by moistening the edge of the cocktail glass with a piece of lemon.

My Translation

2 oz Zuidan oude Genever 5 yo
1/4 oz Small Hands Gum Syrup
1 (almost full) bar spoon Luxardo Maraschino
1/2 bar spoon* Angostura bitters
1/2 bar spoon Bokers Bitters (by Adam Elmegirab)
1/2 bar spoon Kubler absinthe

Mix well in (a Yarai Japanese mixing glass from http://www.cocktailkingdom.com/ preferably of course!) 1/2 filled with hand-cracked ice. Strain into coupe cocktail glass. Zest lemon rind over top, rub rim and discard.
*My 30cm Japanese "teardrop" bar spoon holds between 1/4 and 1/2 tsp


Zuidam oude 5 "Improved Gin Cocktail"

Wow! Very different than Bols for this one. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy the Bols in this cocktail too. This new bottle tells me there's more to this whole Genever range though, and the "Improved" gin cocktail makes a great benchmark drink.

This is a drink better enjoyed through direct experience rather than listening to my clumsy tasting notes, but if pressed I'd describe this cocktail as soft and sweet with good balance and depth. The maraschino and absinthe survive surprisingly well and support rather than overpower the Genever. The lemon oils gives nice clean lift, and pull what could be a sweet cloying taste up to a more refreshing balance. The prof comes through again. Thank you Jerry!

(Also...special thanks to "Cousin Joe" for sending this exquisite treat and excellent addition to the shelves here at "The Lab"! Your generous spirit shall be rewarded when next you visit.)