Villa Zarri, Bologna Italy

When an invitation to visit a local Brandy distiller on the outskirts of Bologna, Italy came up last week I almost did not go. Italian Brandy? Unheard of!

Then my friend assured me that this was the finest brandy in all of Italy...and then somehow my afternoon magically rearranged itself to allow this trip to be taken with ease...so why not I thought? 

It turned out to be a highlight of our trip, and as for that bold claim? I now believe it to be one of the best brandies not only in Italy but even (queue the Jeremy Clarkson voice)...in the world.

Located about 10 minutes outside of Bologna's town center in a compound dating back to 1578. The Villa was restructured in 1729 and thanks to some loving restorations over the years it looks much the same today as it did in the eighteenth century.

Guido Zarri in front of the boiler of his Alambic Charentais

Guido Zarri's family has been working with brandy for three generations starting with his maternal grandfather Leonidas Zarri. They purchased the Pilla, a small company based in liquor Murano (Venice).

The company was later transferred to Castel Maggiore (Bologna) and under the guidance of his father, Guido made a very important development with the Brandy Oro Pilla. He went into business in the late 70's and sold the brand Oro Pilla to Amaro Montenegro in 1988. 

The old Oro Pilla distillery located next to Villa Zilla.

In 1986 he started a small production of Brandy Cognac inspired by the goal of creating in Italy, a Brandy DOC. Keeping his small distillery in Villa Zarri, baptized by the name of the old house that lies in front of the distillery, he turned to craft production as a passion project to produce a Brandy which over the years has become increasingly valuable (and good!).

This vessel is used to preheat a batch of wine to speed the distillation process.

Starting only with fresh white wine made from the Trebbiano grapes grown in the local Toscano and Romagna regions, the Villa runs 24/7 during harvest season.

Wine in brought in by truck from local producers and stored in these large stainless steel vessels.

Each batch is started by boiling approximately 7500 liters of fresh wine with an A.B.V. of approx 10%. Since the alembic's boiler holds only 2500 litres it takes 3 batches of the first distillation called the "blank" which has an ABV of around 30-35% to make one full batch (approx 700 litres) of the "aquavite de vino" which has an A.B.V. of approx 70%.

The condenser cools the alcohol vapors collected from the boiler very slowly and gently.

The aging process results in a net loss of approximately 3% of the total amount of liquid produced per year. After 10 years 30% of the original liquid has been lost to evaporation, a.k.a. the "Angel's Share".

So for every 7500 liters of wine they start with, to produce a 10 year old vintage they only net approx 450 liters of aged brandy. A 20-22 year vintage, only half of that. This is why good brandy is so expensive!

The stainless steel holding tanks, each hold approx 5,000 liters.

As each batch is distilled, the heads (the first part of the run) and tails (the end of the run) are saved in separate containers to be used later in proprietary ways to enrich the flavors of the final product. These containers are kept behind the steel fence in the photo above, and not accessible without the presence of the proper official, so at the wrong time of day even a small equipment failure can cause large disaster!

The aging process begins in (new) 350 liter barrels of French oak from the forests of Limousin and dell'Allier. When the brandy is aged in new oak for that first year, it absorbs color, tannins and aromas from the wood.  

The origin of the oak makes a large difference. For example, the forests of the Limousin are predominately Farnia oak which have a coarser grain and are richer in content of phenol's like catechinic tannins. Oak from dell'Allier has finer veining and is rich in vanillin.

Bottling Room (all done by hand)

The Allier oak, with it's slower growth rate, has a fine, close grain which isolates the aging liquid from the outside environment to a greater degree than the relatively wide grains of the faster growing trees from Limousin. This is fine for wine but spirits need to breath more as they age than a wine does. This is why they use both woods, to get the best of both worlds.

When taking Bologna's idea microclimate for aging spirits into account, this access to the outside world becomes key. Bologna's gentle seasons provide just enough change in temperatures to really allow the spirit to take deep long breaths each year as the cold air contracts the liquid into itself and the hot season pushes it out. 

After the first year it is racked into depleted barrels (which have been used for more than 4 years) and left there for the rest of the aging period. In the old barrels, through the pores of the wood and "breathe" of the seasons, the brandy loses alcohol, absorbs oxygen and develops its true flavors.

Guido showing us some of the new high-end bottles  they are using for their current vintages.

This phase is very slow. It takes a great many years to evolve and get a great Brandy distillate. Guido insists that his Brandy is totally natural and does not add coloring, flavoring or sweeteners. All Villa Zarri Brandies are aged a minimum of 10 years. 

Today his oldest Brandy is a 22 year old vintage! Also bottled (Vintage 1988) is a Brandy flavored with tobacco leaves (Kentucky tobacco) from local Tuscan growers. (I was lucky enough to acquire bottle #967 of the limited run of 1400 bottles, and have included a review below.) 

A selection of Villa Zarri Brandies in their tasting room.

The range currently includes a 10 year, 18 year, 21 and 22 year releases as well as a range of (naturally) flavored brandies including a walnut liqueur, a cherry brandy and a coffee brandy. Especially well suited (and desirable) for cocktail mixing is the cherry brandy. 

Villa Zarri 10 year and Cherry Brandies

Their cherry brandy is made using both sour (durone della marca) and sweet (nero secondo) cherries which are steeped in the brandy for two full months creating an amazingly deep and rich cherry brandy (yet it is also somehow very light!) - with all natural ingredients. Simple and elegant it's perfect to sip on its own, but will lend itself well to classic cocktail recipes. This is truly how cherry brandy would also have been made "back in the day".

Check out the entire range here: http://www.villazarri.com/eng/home.asp

1988 Vintage Villa Zarri Tobacco Brandy

Villa Zarri 21 year old Tobacco Brandy

A cigar to drink? Created for those who want to enjoy their cigars with brandy to the next degree. It is bottled at full strength, without any dilution with water, after a long period of aging. It is based on a blend of brandies from 1987 and infused briefly with local Tuscan Tobacco leaves. (Kentucky)

The producer describes the expression as being "Clear and warm, refined with a bright amber color. Elegant and aromatic nose with a very fine smell of sweet spices, cinnamon, vanilla, grapevine flowers and cloves. On the palate this brandy is full, warm, spicy and fresh."  

They also caution moderation as it does contains nicotine!

VILLA ZARRI ANTICO BRANDY ITALIANO 

CON SELEZIONE DI TABBACO TOSCANO

21 YEAR OLD - VINTAGE 1988
ITALIAN TOBACCO FLAVORED BRANDY
SCORE:  96 points

NOSE: Tobacco right there in the top, big and bold! Underneath though I found the notes of the cinnamon and vanilla, even a hint of the clove. This is a strong Brandy at 90 proof and that heat comes through on the nose, though not unpleasantly so - there is a softness there too for such a strong spirit. Full of character and inevitably met with a "wow!" and a quick second whiff. 23/25.

PALATE: Velvety. Smooth and slippery in the mouth. Several layers of flavor come on quickly. The deep, well-balanced brandy base arrives first with a nice big oak flavor and hints of leather. Subtle cherry and grape flavors make a brief appearance. The notes on the nose of cloves, cinnamon and vanilla show up mid way, giving way to the tobacco on the finish. 24/25

FINISH: The tannins are so soft as to be nearly absent, however they are present and provide excellent structure. A beautiful, long finish with full hits of fresh tobacco leaf along with further expansion of the baking spices present on the nose and palate. 24/25

BALANCE: Unique. Come on, a tobacco Brandy? I have no idea how they pulled it off - but even my own mother, who is a non-drinker and certainly not a smoker, enjoyed the overall effect of this spirit. She took a sip and closed her eyes as she was taken back to her paternal grandfather's tobacco farm which she visited often as a child. That's what a great spirit should do! The tobacco does not overwhelm, it's big and forceful while remaining subtle at the same time. As charming as it is unique. Considering the task they undertook with this ambitious mix, I'd say the product us a huge success and deserves the highest of marks.  25/25

Highly Recommended

MORE PHOTOS ON MY FACEBOOK PAGE: http://on.fb.me/GRTYHl

Travel Tales: NYC Winter 2012

I had a great time checking out new places in NYC last week. Toy Fair, Fashion Week, and bevy of all-new places to try out, it all made for an extra good time!

First stop was booker and dax which is located adjacent to momofuku ssam bar in milk bar's old location (milk bar moved to a new space directly across 13th street).

Momofuku restaurant group owner David Chang and molecular gastronomy wizard Dave Arnold put this program together and I have to say, they are off to a great start!

BOOKER AND DAX

Booker & Dax, 207 Second Ave, at 13th Street. 212-254-3500

For a "molecular" program, the cocktails were remarkably normal in their presentation. The familiar enough menu headings on the right hand side of their current cocktail menu read "Stirred", "Shaken", "On the Rock"...

BOOKER AND DAX's inaugural cocktail menu, February 2012.

The first column is the unusual bit. "Bubbles" which are house-prepared, pre-mixed and bottled-cocktails which are then hand carbonated on-demand.

Because they carbonate the entire cocktail, rather than adding a carbonated beverage to the mix, the mouth-feel on the carbonation is unusual. Big, round bubbles that feel like pop-rocks going off in your mouth. Well, almost like pop-rocks!

It was my first cocktail of the trip so I started with the Manhattan. It was a very solid classic served in a small coupe with enough extra liquid to fill the glass about half again served in a small glass bottle on the side.

It was served very cold mind you, the glasses are chilled using liquid nitrogen! It was very refreshing and absolutely hit the spot after a long day of travel.

Here's bar manager Tristan Willey showing us the electric hot poker in action!

A main attraction here is certainly the "Red Hot Poker" which is especially fitting for their winter launch. The poker was created by Dave Arnold and reaches temperatures around 1500°. Like the red hot pokers used in colonial days to make hot rum flips and their ilk, the poker is heated (electronically) to the point where the tip is glowing red hot. It rests on the bar off to the side in a protective cradle.

When the poker is used to heat up one of these drinks, flames shoot up as high as two feet above the glass creating an entertaining light show. This is more than just a gimmick though, it's a serious tool. OK, granted it should not take long for the "Flaming Moe" jokes to start, but the resulting concoctions made me a believer!

We tried the "'N' Cider", "Friend of the Devil" and the "French Colombian" this visit.

The 'N' Cider is a classic winter warmer. The flaming process tamed the normally hot and hard-to-tame Laird's bonded down quite a bit. The softened apple whisky combined with the lemon, cider and cinnamon made for an exceptionally good toddy.

Back Bar at Booker and Dax, note the "Red Hot Poker" in lower right corner.

The hot Campari in the Friend of the Devil was a new one for the group and we all agreed it changed the flavor quite a bit. The touch of pernod seemed just right. It was a bit all over the place on the palate, sharp and smooth, bitter and just a touch sweet. Unusual and enjoyable.

The French Colombian is for Pernod lovers! I've never really liked "good and plentys" but this was good enough that even I enjoyed the result. Bottom line with these drinks, the menu's description of "old-school flavors, burnt and caramelized, served hot..." is dead on.

We also tried a Bols Deep. Bols Genever based old fashioned's are gaining popularity for good reason, they are delicious! The Bols Deep was no exception. Keep an eye out for these drinks this year!

With a rotovap on the back bar by the till, you know this program is seriously geeky, but it is not geeky to the point of distraction. Like all of David Chang's endeavors, Booker and Dax provides an experience that is comfortable and familiar, while providing something that somehow feels completely new at the same time.

Thanks again to Tristan and the crew for making us feel welcome and taking such good care of us, we had a great round of drinks!

Graffiti outside of booker and dax's 13th street entrance.

On the way to dinner the next evening at Hudson Clearwater I stopped in at Employee's Only for a quick drink. (...and it was so good I had to stop in for another one after dinner!)

EMPLOYEES ONLY

Entrance to Employee's Only, 510 Hudson St., 212-242-3021

The address alone will only get you part of the way there. Following the unmarked-door trend prevalent in modern speakeasies, this location is marked only by the "EO" logo in the middle of the green awning in the photo above. It wasn't immediately obvious to me that I'd arrived at my destination and I had to ask the doorman if I was in the right place. He affirmed I was and invited me in.

Inside, just past the psychic working a small table with tarot cards, is an art deco gem. Tasteful glitz, just a tad faded, it really felt like a swank 20's speakeasy.

I was there on a Wednesday night at a little after 6 and I was one of 3 people sitting at the bar. Milos Zica was behind the stick and made me a Malèna cocktail, a mixture of, well...here's the menu, you can find it towards the middle of the first column:

So the Malèna, my favorite rye, with Campari and they throw in a little high-end port and orange bitters - a very nice cocktail. I tried not to drink this concoction too fast as I waited for my companions to arrive for dinner, which was not an easy task! I was able to watch Milos give instructions to the barbacks for the busy evening ahead and even sampled a few variations on a drink he was developing.

Arriving early anywhere is a good call if you want to get to know a place. The staff has so much more time to spend with you before the crowd arrives and starts pushing them to their limits. Milos was the perfect host and even though I only had time for one, it was very enjoyable and I was made to feel extremely welcome.

When I returned 4 hours later after a tasty (and reasonably priced!) meal at the Hudson Clearwater (if you go, try the Kings County which is a mixture of Rye, Chartreuse, Carpano Antica, Ango and Orange Bitters w/orange twist)...ok, here - check it out, it is worth locating and enjoying! http://www.hudsonclearwater.com/ (212-989-3255)

Several hours later after the big meal, we returned and Milos immediately recognized me and helped us find a few seats at the bar. It was late and we only had time for one, but I had as good a Pisco Sour as I have had anywhere and I was also able to sample their "Ruby Tuesday" (which was also very good). Before hitting the bricks we shared a round of Fernet with the staff.

The trip to "EO" was very enjoyable and I would not hesitate to return.

'inoteca liquori

'inoteca liquori, 323 Third Ave, New York 212-683-3035

We arrived around 6:30 on a Thursday night at this neighborhood favorite and it was already starting to fill up. It took about a quarter of an hour to jockey a few seats at the bar. Once there we ordered some light plates and cocktails. Bar manager Chaim Dauermann was behind the stick and promptly whipped us up a couple of great cocktails.

The pasta dishes hit the spot, I ordered the linguine w/mussels, cherry tomatoes, garlic and wine and it was excellent, and this is a favorite dish of mine! The cherry tomatoes were on the large side and had their skins blanched off, they a nice meaty texture and a great flavor. There were pleanty of mussels in the mix and not too much butter in the sauce. Kudos to Chef Eric Kleinman for really getting this dish right!

The back bar at 'inoteca liquori - an impressive collection!

Check out their current cocktail menu here: http://www.inotecanyc.com/liquori/cocktail.php

I ordered the Vieux Carre. Shaim put together the Rittenhouse rye, Hine H Cognac, Dolin Rouge, Benedictine (along with Ango and Peychaud's bitters).

I soon received the expertly prepared classic cocktail which tasted every bit as good as it looked. Soon the place was really filling up and we had places to go, so after the quick bite and libations we were ready to move on.

Thanks again to Shaim and the crew for a great experience. I'll be back!

ACME

boo!

We hiked it over to Acme next and were greeted inside by a rather rude couple who immediately informed us that there was a private party that night. It's worth saying that there was nothing on their web site and nothing on front of building noting this. A friend I was with told me that this was the second time that he had tried to visit this place, and the same thing happened to him the first time. I really doubt I'll be back to try again.

This did give us a chance to hike a little further on to Viktor & Spoils...which turned out to be well worth the walk in the rain.

VIKTOR & SPOILS

The wall of lit Jarritos at Viktor & Spoils, very cool.

Viktor & Spoils "at the Hotel on Rivington" 105 Rivington St, 212-475-3485

We looked at the entrance from across the street for a few extra beats before we figured out we had arrived. The doorman was my first clue!

The bar is flanked by flickering candles, each candle masked with a gruesome skull. Good mojo! This place has a great vibe. Check out the wall of mezcal and tequila, I was impressed!

I started with a favorite, "La Vida Buena". A tasty mix of Vida Mezcal, Aperol, Carpano Antica, Orange Bitters, Orange Peel stirred and served up. Perfect after trekking so far west. I remember feeling quite glad at that point that Acme had been closed!

The walls in the lounge are made from huge reclaimed wooden planks.

The look was rustic, but with the lighting and horizontal movement of the wood - I'd say they pulled off a modern feel at the same time. At any rate, I rather liked the whole feel. Funky, modern, comfortable. A fun hang with great libations.

We also had very good margaritas (though don't ask for a "Tommy's" here) and later, a round of mezcal (served in small terracotta saucers) with Leo DeGroff, the son of cocktail legend Dale DeGroff, who has teamed up with Andy Seymour and Steve Olson (AKA Wine Geek), to put a super solid tequila and mezcal based cocktail program together here. Here's a copy of their menu for your viewing:

Viktor & Spoils Cocktail Menu, Feb 2012

Viktor & Spoils mezcal & tequila list.

This was another spot I would love to come back to. I didn't get to try their food this visit, but what I saw come out of the kitchen looked tasty!

___________________________________________________

Last on this trip was actually the same place where I ended my first night in the city, a place where you should end your night at least once in the near future. Where the drinks kept coming one better than the last. A place I got happily trashed at twice, it was so nice. A place called Mother's Ruin.

MOTHER'S RUIN

Mother's Ruin, 18 Spring Street, 212-219-0942

This place was great. Laid back, divey but still kinda nice, a little old world charm in the ceilings. Funky bathroom. Nice long bar with enough people working to take care of the crowd. An industry hang-out to be sure, but everyone who is there is there simply to have a great time.

I showed up on Monday night (after some excellent German fare at Weschler's - Currywurst and   Köstritzer , what a treat). It was not too early, maybe 9:00 and we were the only ones there!

So we had G (Giuseppe Gonzales) to ourselves for close to an hour before things really picked up. This is certainly unusual, but it was the night before Valentine's Day and a Monday to boot...it turned out to be our good luck! I remember having a great time, being served some delicious laird's bonded based drinks, and hearing some great stories from G, but not much else to be honest.

When you find a place that was that much fun, it's hard not to return quickly! So my last night before heading home I found myself back at Mother's for "one or two". Again, I was treated to a great number of unknown drinks along with the attentions of some amazing bartenders - and again, that's about all I remember. This staff knows their stuff and how to have a great time with the crowd. It is a perfect place to end an evening out, and a perfect place to end this post. Cheers!

Travel Tales: London 2011

I'm fresh back from a trip to the London Book Fair this week, where I was also able to fit in an amazing tour of London's cocktail scene. So much was covered in my three nights out that in-depth reviews of each location would be impractical. So I've decided to write up a travelogue to share all the highlights with you.

During this trip I wanted to take in as much as possible so the focus was less on the cocktails themselves and more on the theater of the London cocktail scene. I was able to visit London's top destinations and meet legendary bar masters both old and new.

The first night out, I met my colleagues at The Academy, (formally "the Lab" 12 Old Compton Street, London, W1D 4TQ +44 20 7437 7820), which is considered to be the cradle of the London's modern classic cocktail scene.

In 1996, when the Lab (an acronym for the London Academy of Bartenders) was opened by Douglas Ankrah, the bar's focus on properly made cocktails put them well ahead of the current craze. The interior is casual with a dark, "70's chic" lounge-like feel. Clean lines, leather, formica. It's strangely retro and modern, and the years have given it a well worn patina allowing it a friendly dive-like feel.

In 2010 the bar was (ahem) "rebranded" as the Academy, and though the bartenders that originally made this location famous have moved on to bigger and better things, this is still a good place to find a great drink. The list is comically large - resembling a book more than a menu and covers more than a hundred recipes.

I enjoyed a Double Barrel which was "A Demerara sugar cube, pimento dram and rhubarb bitters stirred together with Havana Club barrel proof, Lagavulin and a touch of ginger beer."

It was served in a double rocks glass over cracked ice with an orange twist and quenched my thirst nicely after a long day at the fair.

Brian Silva behind the bar at Rules, London

We were off to the bar at "Rules" restaurant next. Rules, which was established in 1789, is known as London's oldest restaurant and is one of London's most exclusive locations with a very long history of catering to London's upper crust.

The interior is old-world posh full of dark wood, red carpeting, gold accents, and stuffed leather. A large wheel of first-rate Stilton cheese sat on a silver serving cart next to the fire place, and the big wooden bar boasted a world-class selection of spirits.

Behind the bar was Brian Silva, a legend in the industry well-known for his work at Home House, Scott's and the Connaught.

Brian has brought the Rules bar program into the twenty-first century with an impressive combination state of the art technology while preserving the old world looks. The back of the bar has been retrofitted with stainless steel cold storage drawers and freezers. We were even treated to tours of Brian's private office and storage areas where he showed off more techy bar gadgetry and rare bottles.

A big believer in the fundamentals, the Silva doctrine is: "Don't try to be clever, just focus on making great drinks", and both the bar and his product reflected the credo.

I enjoyed a "Swedish Diplomat" which I remember as having included swedish punsch, diplomat whiskey and fernet. It was served in a massive rocks glass (75 ml) over a huge clear chunk of hand carved ice. Though the portions were normal, it was excellent presentation making you feel that you were getting a very substantial drink.

I also tried a sample of Brian's famous bloody mary, which reminded what an enjoyable drink it could be. It was thick and delicious with fresh horseradish and wonderful spice.

All of our drinks were solidly built and thoroughly enjoyable, but it was Brian's skill as a host that truly elevated the overall experience and brought life to both the bar and the drinks. A skill which is a barman's best asset, and is too often neglected by many aspiring to learn the craft.

Our schedule demanded that we reluctantly move on.

We had to rush off to keep our reservation at Lounge Bohemia (1E Great Eastern Street, London, EC2A 3EJ +44 (07720) 707000) lest we prove ourselves less than punctual for the eccentric molecular mad genius, Paul Tvorah.

We managed to make it on time and the Czech barman welcomed us to his subterranean lair where we were shown into a recessed seating area in a back corner. A cozy spot, we settled in and were presented with the cocktail menu which was pasted into the middle pages of a battered novel.

There was a pronounced bohemian feel here without being over the top. The decor reflected it, but it was more the attitude of the staff and the patrons. Apparently there is even a "no suit" policy!

Lounge Bohemia's current "molecular" selection.

Paul visited our table and went over the current offerings with us. I had the "old castro", my colleagues had a "russian breakfast" and a "holy smoke". This was my first experience with a true "molecular" cocktail. Paul's molecular approach is not only for show, he also has his feet firmly planted in the classics.

The drinks arrived with stories to tell and transformations to take place before our eyes. Paul sprayed an atomizer around the table full of a special blend to heighten the olfactory experience.

The Holy Smoke arrived with the glass upside down on a silver tray. The glass was full of frankincense and myrrh smoke which was up-righted so that the leather infused courvoisier vsop exclusif in the accompanying mini-carafe could be poured in. The gifts of the three wise-men made for an earthy blend, pungent with spicy aromas and barest hints of leather amplifying and exploding the flavors of the already exceptional expression of courvoisier.

The Russian Breakfast came with a very convincing "caviar" that went amazingly well with the dry chocolate infused vodka. The "caviar", a concoction which is a signature part of molecular mixology, was a fun thing to be able to experience as part of my intro to molecular cocktails.

Perhaps the most impressive transformation was the old cuban though. The drink on the platter arrived with a chilled double rocks glass filled with fluffy white vanilla candy floss looking like billowing smoke in the glass. A rolled cinnamon stick-like piece of bark was stuck in the glass looking like a cigar in the dim light.

The Hanava barrel proof rum infused with "cuban cigar, vanilla and orange bitters" came in a cigar tube which Paul opened and poured over the candy floss which dissolved as he stirred with the bark. When the transformation was complete he tucked the bark into the cigar tube and bid us ado.

The effect was along the lines of a rum old fashioned. The cigar was there but only as a distant hint, the sugar, vanilla and orange bitters effectively balancing the rough edges. It was an enjoyable drink and a fun experience overall.

At this point we really needed food, so we caught a quick bite at the Soho location of Busaba Eathai, which is a local chain of upscale Thai eateries with a half-dozen locations in London.

We sat at the large, square communal tables in the large, open, high-ceilinged dining room and enjoyed some fast and fresh food. I had one of the best "jungle curry" dishes that I've ever tried, and my companions enjoyed some delicious green curries. It was the perfect place to fuel up for the rest of the evening.

Then it was up and away to Callooh Callay (65 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3QQ, +44 020 7739 4781), where we ran into none other than former LAB star Victor Nordelöf, who once again treated us not only with great drinks, but great hospitality as well. 

The cocktail menu here was literally comical, presented by the "Shoreditch Comic Cocktail Group" we tuned in to the Summer Edition 2011 No. 5 "Battle of the Rivington Heroes".

The group ordered:

I was able to try my companions' drinks, the popcorn & cola was actually not bad. Every bar should have a well thought out "beginner" drink like this. It's easy and approachable with a fun name, and is currently very popular at the bar. The "Black Cadillac" had nice complexity and balance and I would have enjoyed having one of my own to finish had we stayed for a second drink.

I had the Hawthorne which was as advertised, a fruity, lighter take on the Manhattan. Not having tried the Byrrh before, Victor was kind enough to pour me a sample which I found to be very interesting. On its own it would be a bit unctuous as a stand-alone sweet vermouth replacement in a recipe, but mixed with the Martini Rosso it added some nice fruit and extra sweetness to the drink.

The surroundings were a bit unremarkable but certainly comfortable. We had a great time here, chatting about a few vintage pieces of barware they were using, trying a few new spirits. After a few more stories and a celebratory round of shots of Laird's bonded (dealer's choice), we were sent on our way once again with smiles on our faces.

We hopped in a cab and made our way to Tony Conigliaro's ("Tony C") new spot in the Zetter Townhouse (behind the Zetter Hotel, 49-50 St John’s Square, Clerkenwell Road, London. EC1M +44 (0) 20 7324 4401). 

Current Cocktail menu at the "ZTH " Townhouse Bar

We made our way through the dark courtyard to the entrance. We paused and looked around to see if we were in the right spot. A glass lamp over the door with the letters "ZTH" scribed subtly on the side was the only indication we had found our destination.

We entered the warm, low ceiling room and were greeted by the hostess. When we asked if this was Tony's new bar we received a large smile and a welcome in. The Georgian interior was right out of the 1800's. We were led to overstuffed chairs and a couch around a coffee table, one of several little seating areas situated around the room.

My colleagues ordered a "Master at Arms" and a "Flintlock". I had the "Nettle Gimlet". The drinks were all good, well made and interesting. The Master at Arms' port evaporation really transformed the Meyers rum into something new and enjoyable. The gunpowder tea tincture added some peppery spice to the flintlock and worked well with the Fernet Branca and Beefeater 24.

The Nettle Gimlet had a nice lingering aftertaste that I assume came from the homemade nettle cordial. The lime and sweet were in nice balance allowing the robust flavors of the Beefeater gin to still come through.

As we took in the surroundings we couldn't help but be drawn to (and a bit creeped out by) at the taxidermy kangaroo in boxing pose around the corner in the adjoining dining room. The rooms were stuffed full of decoration and we spent a bit of time wandering and pointing at one oddity after another. The lighting was dim but not dark. The overall effect was that of a warming and cozy nineteenth public house. Great place to take a date!

Next we stopped in at El Camion, formally "El Camino", to see if Dick Bradsell was working, he had already left for the evening though so we moved on to ECC.

As it was our 6th bar and 8th stop for the evening, we met the Experimental Cocktail club a little weary eyed and with admittedly well worn palates. I remember being a bit surprised when we came upon the now famous door in London's Chinatown.

We made our way up to the first level bar, found some seats and ordered a round of drinks. ECC is lucky enough to have a license allowing them to stay open until 3AM, but technically they become a "club" after 11PM and are required to charge a cover of £5. 

I couldn't swear at this point as to what my companions had ordered. I do remember being disappointed by the Havana that I had ordered. It started out nice but had a bit of a muddy, almost ashtray like finish. Possibly it was just the end of the evening and my taste buds were shot, but as I passed it around for tastes we all got the same impression of the drink. Maybe they left the cigar in the bourbon too long, but maybe too it was just the buildup of too weighty of expectations.

On the second night, after a business dinner I met my companions at the Savoy's famous "American Bar" where I found them in a corner conversing with two legendary barmen, Peter Dorelli and Salvatore Calabrese!

As we sipped on barrel aged Hanky Panky's, Mr. Dorelli's own special blend, he led me around the newly renovated space pointing out portraits of his former patrons and regaled me with a few stories from his 30+ years as head bartender here.

The famous curved white bar was resplendent with the finest spirits the world has to offer and the white tuxedo clad barmen worked with expert care and precision. It was Peter that oversaw the 1972 transformation of the American bar from the Tiki look to the current "70's retro deco" I'll call it. The bar was restored as part of the recent 3 year, £220 million renovation of the property.

The tables in the bar are original to the 1972 remodel and were brought in by Peter from his last bar. The chairs were refurbished. The art and photos saved and rehung. After a painful split with the Savoy's last owners, it was clear that Peter was satisfied with the new ownership's restoration.

Peter and Salvatore have been friends since the dawn of time and the stories they told reflected their long history both in and out of the bar. Seemingly quiet and reserved in comparison to Peter's expansive personality and booming Italian accented speech, Salvatore's accent has become an odd mix of his homeland of Italy and that of a conservative Londoner. His speech brings you in as if he were sharing with you a great secret.

Listening to them talk of some of the times that they have shared was a rare treat indeed. Though they had professed a need to leave, as they dug into the subject of "bar theatre" and the importance to the craft of being a good host and bringing life to a drink, they one upped each other several times with "one more story and then we have to go".

They could not underscore the point enough, and it's true enough whether you are making a drink for friends or family or behind the bar. Drink making skills alone are not enough. You've got to be able to connect with your audience and entertain them. The glass is your canvas, the liquor the color, and this your art...it is up to you  to bring that art to life for your customer through your words and your connection with them.

It was an honor to be able to spend time with the two living legends, and listen to the stories that they must have told many thousands of times, but for which they still had a relish in the relaying of.

Beaufort Bar in the newly renovated Savoy Hotel, London

After thanking Salvatore and Peter for their time and bidding them a good evening, we headed over to the see the Beaufort bar's renovation.

The bar is raised a few steps on a stage-like dais in the center of the back wall of the room. Thick black velvet curtains on either side accentuate the stage feel of the bar. The entire room is black and gold, reeking of old world power.

The room was surprisingly lively with most of the tables full. We were met by the lovely Gabriela Moncada Peña behind the bar. She treated us to some very nice drinks including a few unusual creations to try. One was a champagne jello topped with elderflower candy accompanied with a glass of champagne with a vanilla soaked sugar cube fizzing away at the bottom. It was quite good!

Much of the cost of renovating the Beaufort bar room was in the gold leaf applied to these alcoves!

On the third day I was able to get out to do a little shopping and made my way to Gerry's wine shop in Soho.

Gerry's probably has the best selection in London, and it was here that I was able to find the holy grail of rye whiskey, Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13, a delightful rye well deserving of a review post in the near future.

My last night in London began at the Dorchester's China Tang bar (The Dorchester Hotel, Park Lane, London, W1A 2HJ +44 (0) 20 7629 9988) where bar manager, Luca Cordiglieri took excellent care of us. Luca is the current V.P. and former chairman of the U.K.B.G.and another of London's elite barmasters. He was everywhere at once, working the crowd and guiding the staff ensuring that his bar program was running as a well oiled machine.

I was excited to find a Sazarac on the menu made with the same Van Winkle Family Reserve rye, the same bottle I had procured on my afternoon trip to Gerry's. I wouldn't have to wait until I returned home to try one!

It was very robust, big, dry and full of oak. As it warmed it mellowed quite a bit, a wonderful combination that I really enjoyed savoring and lingering over. Luca sent us some dim sum from the kitchen, that were amazingly flavorful.

One odd thing I couldn't help notice is that for such an amazingly well organized program, there was no tiered shelving for bottles. The back bar wall was beautifully decorated and lit, but all the bottles were on a level shelf which was full all the way from the back wall to the front edge.

The Bar at the Dorchester

On our way out we went upstairs to see the main bar "The Bar at the Dorchester", which was full of hand blown red glass spears, mahogany, velvet and mirrored glass. The long, curved and lit bar was impressive.

After ogling the new Merc gullwing parked out front as we departed the Dorchester, we made our way to the Connaught (Carlos Place, Mayfair, London, W1K 2AL +44 020 7499 7070).

The drinks were amazing all around. There we met head mixologist Agostino Perrone behind the bar and I had a "Mulata Daisy", the recipe for which he won the 08/09 Bacardi world cup. It was sweet, the rim coated in cocoa powder, but deep and with good sour balance. Approachable for any level of drinker.

The Martini Cart at the Cannaught

Ago has brought the martini cart back to life and delivers white glove table side assembly. A selection of vanilla, ginger, grapefruit, liquorice, lavender, or coriander bitters allows the customer to chose flavors that best suit their taste. He spins tales of the drink as he spins the mixing spoon expertly in the Yarai mixing glass mixing, never shaking, the customer's ideal martini. Ago has the hospitality gene and amazing skill in creating new recipes, it was easy to see why he is currently London's most sought after talent.

The room was dimly lit with glass and marble gleaming in the ambient light. The back bar had some great conversation pieces including the largest shaker I've ever seen, which apparently was made by a specialty shop and which Ago won as a trophy for a competition.

Chinatown, Experimental Cocktail Club (13A Gerrard Street, Chinatown, W1D 5PS, London +44 02 074 343559).

After seeing so many London establishments and having been here once before with mixed results I held no strong expectations for our return one way or another. There is a lot of hype around this bar. For a new school "speakeasy" the place was roomy. High ceilings on each floor, tables packed in but the place never seemed crowded.

We ended up on the second floor bar this night and were seated in a corner to the left of the bar by the windows. The Toreador I was brought as an opening drink was a little on the sweet side, they could have used a more robust tequila and it would have worked better. The second drink was much better, unfortunately I have no recollection of what it was!

We moved on to El Camion (formally El Camino, 27 Brewer Street London W1F 0RR) where this time we did find the legendary Dick Bradsell working the Baja room). The group was a few heavier as a couple bartenders from ECC were going off shift and decided to join us. We also ran into Antonio, a bartender from Rules, there that was working under Brian the night we visited. It ended up a blur of shaken madness, a great end to the evening and the trip.

Dick Bradsell is a different kind of London legend. He created some of the very best drinks to come from the 80's and 90's barscene. The Bramble, The Wibble, The Russian Spring Punch, The Cowboy Martini...the Espresso Vodka (aka Espresso Martini), and the Treacle. Unassuming but spirited behind the bar he managed the expectations of a very demanding crowd with ease and grace. His staff knew exactly what they were doing and performed their jobs very well, and they were all excellent hosts.

We were greeted with a round of tequila blanco shots with a spicy tomato juice chaser of Dick's own special blend. As I waited my turn in the group to make my order I noticed a bottle of Del Maguey Mezcal Vida on the shelf and asked if he would make me something with it. I was treated with an adaptation of his Pink Chihuahua subbing the mezcal for the tequila. Here's the original recipe:

Pink Chihuahua
(Dick Bradsell- El Camion, 2010) 

50ml Altos Blanco Tequila,

25ml Fresh Lime Juice,

25ml Freshly Squeezed Pomegranate Juice,

20ml Orgeat Syrup,

10ml Eggwhite,

Shake with Ice, then strain into a Cocktail glass; Garnish with a lime wedge.

I was able to try the Treacle, the Bramble, a Wibble and a few others that night. We had a great time and closed the place out at 3AM with the bouncer doing his very best to be polite as we lingered to say our goodbyes. 

All in all, the trip was spectacular. I was able to meet, talk to, watch in action and learn from some of the very best bartenders in the world. I ventured into some of the most storied watering holes, new and old, that the city has to offer. I met many wonderful, warm, gracious hosts that made me feel right at home.

What was learned this trip? Never forget to be a good host. The theatre of the bar is so very important. How the customer is greeted. The look and feel of the place, does it match the drink list? Is the host interested in sharing the 4 recipes for each drink (the classic recipe, the current standard, how the bartender prefers the drink and how the customer likes it) and drawing out the best match for the customer's mood? Has the customer (or friend) been made to feel comfortable and at home?

These are the skills that I found common in each of the legendary professionals I met. Yes, they all made very good drinks. Above all though, they were all excellent hosts. 

I sincerely thank every one of them for their genuine hospitality.